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Metal Guide for Your Engagement Ring

Written by Emil Pruden

Your engagement ring marks the beginning of something. It’s worn every day, often for a lifetime, and becomes part of how your hand looks and feels. At Pruden and Smith, every engagement ring is handcrafted in precious metal in our village workshop in England, so the material you choose matters in ways that go far beyond colour alone.

We work with these metals daily, shaping them by hand, seeing how they behave, how they age, and how they support diamonds and gemstones in real life. This guide is here to help you understand your options, from gold carats to platinum, and how each choice affects look, feel, longevity, and cost.

Understanding Carats for Engagement Rings

Carat refers to how much pure gold is present in an alloy. Pure gold is 24 carat, meaning 100% gold. While beautiful in colour, 24ct is very soft, too soft to securely hold a diamond or withstand everyday wear. For this reason, we do not work in 24ct for engagement rings.

Instead, we use 9ct and 18ct gold, blending pure gold with other precious metals to create alloys that are strong enough for daily life while retaining beauty.

9ct Gold contains 37.5% pure gold. It is the most accessible gold option and highly durable, making it a practical choice for an engagement ring that will be worn constantly.

18ct Gold contains 75% pure gold. It has a richer tone and a softer, more luxurious feel, and is often chosen for its depth of colour and sense of occasion.

Because every engagement ring we make is crafted entirely in-house, you can work one-to-one with one of our designers to choose the metal that suits you best, or even combine metals within one ring.

Platinum

Platinum is the only naturally white precious metal we use. It has a soft, silvery tone that never requires plating, so the colour you choose is the colour that stays.

It is exceptionally strong and dense, making it ideal for holding diamonds and gemstones securely. Over time, platinum develops a gentle patina rather than wearing away, which many people find beautiful. It is also naturally hypoallergenic.

For engagement rings, especially those with prominent stones, platinum is often our first recommendation.

Yellow Gold

Yellow gold is gold in its most traditional form. Warm, rich, and unmistakably classic, it brings depth and contrast to diamonds and coloured stones alike.

We work most commonly in 9ct and 18ct yellow gold. Higher carats offer a deeper, warmer hue, while lower carats provide increased resilience and a more approachable price point.

Yellow gold suits those drawn to heritage, warmth, and a look that feels enduring rather than trend-led.

White Gold

White gold is created by blending gold with naturally white metals. At Pruden and Smith, we do not rhodium plate our white gold.

Many jewellers apply a bright white coating that wears away over time and requires regular re-plating. We leave white gold in its natural state, which has a soft, warm, slightly ivory tone.

This means your engagement ring will age evenly and honestly. If you’re seeking a crisp, cool white metal with no change over time, platinum remains the truest option.

Rose Gold

Rose gold is made by blending gold with copper, giving it its gentle blush tone. It feels romantic, distinctive, and slightly vintage.

It is also one of the more durable gold alloys, making it well suited to everyday wear. Rose gold engagement rings are often chosen by those who want something a little different, without feeling fleeting.

Mixed Metal Engagement Rings

Mixed metal engagement rings offer a beautiful balance between strength and warmth. A platinum setting can securely hold your stone, while a yellow or rose gold band introduces colour and personality.

This approach works especially well if you’re planning to wear a wedding ring in a different metal, or if you’re drawn to contrast. Because every ring we make is handcrafted in-house, mixed metal designs are a natural part of our process.

Choosing the Right Metal

Choosing the metal for your engagement ring is both a practical and emotional decision. Think about how you use your hands, the tones you naturally gravitate toward, and how you’d like your ring to age over time.

If you love a cool, white finish that will remain unchanged for life, platinum is our strongest recommendation. If you’re drawn to warmth and tradition, yellow gold offers timeless beauty. If you prefer softer, more unusual tones, white gold in its natural form or rose gold may feel just right. And if you enjoy contrast, a mixed metal design can be a wonderful middle ground.

Whatever you choose, your engagement ring is made to be lived in. Our role is to help you find a metal that not only looks beautiful on day one, but feels right for every day that follows.

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