A Guide to Precious Metals

At Pruden and Smith, we work exclusively with precious metals, shaping every piece by hand in our village workshop in England. Whether it’s a ring, a pendant, or a pair of earrings, the metal it’s made from matters, not just in how it looks, but in how it wears, ages, and feels over time.

We spend our days working with these materials, understanding how they behave, how they respond to touch, and how they suit real life. This guide breaks down the precious metals we use, starting with carats, then exploring platinum and gold, to help you choose a metal that feels right for you.

Understanding Carats

The term “carat” refers to how much pure gold is present in a piece of metal. Pure gold is 24 carat, meaning it is 100% gold. While undeniably beautiful in colour, 24ct is very soft, too soft for jewellery designed to be worn and enjoyed over many years. For this reason, we don’t work in 24ct for our core designs.

In some cases we do work in 22ct gold, which contains a very high proportion of pure gold while gaining a little extra strength from the alloy. It offers that deep, traditional gold colour, with just enough resilience for considered, careful wear.

Across our core collection, however, you’ll most often find 9ct and 18ct gold. These alloys blend pure gold with other precious metals, creating pieces that are both beautiful and robust.

9ct Gold contains 37.5% pure gold. It is the most affordable gold option and highly durable, making it a practical choice for everyday jewellery. Its colour is slightly lighter than higher carats, offering a thoughtful balance between longevity and price.

18ct Gold contains 75% pure gold. It has a richer, warmer tone and a slightly softer feel. Many people are drawn to 18ct for its depth of colour and sense of occasion.

Because every Pruden and Smith piece is made entirely in-house, you can work one-to-one with one of our designers to choose the metal that feels right for you, or even create a combination of metals. That personal, considered approach is what we’re known for.

Platinum

Platinum is the only naturally white precious metal we work with. It has a soft, silvery tone that never needs plating, meaning the colour you choose on day one is the colour it will keep for life.

Renowned for its strength and durability, platinum is exceptionally well suited to jewellery that is worn often. Rather than wearing away, platinum gently displaces with time, developing a soft patina that many people love. It is also naturally hypoallergenic.

If you’re looking for a white metal that will remain honest and enduring, platinum is always our first recommendation.

Yellow Gold

Yellow gold is gold in its truest, most natural form. Warm, rich, and timeless, it has been used in jewellery for thousands of years.

We work most commonly in 9ct and 18ct yellow gold. Higher carats offer a deeper, warmer tone, while lower carats provide increased durability and a more accessible price point.

Yellow gold suits those who love warmth, tradition, and a classic look that never feels dated.

White Gold

White gold is created by blending pure gold with naturally white metals. At Pruden and Smith, we do not rhodium plate our white gold.

Many jewellers coat white gold with a bright white plating to make it appear almost chrome-like. Over time, that plating wears away and requires regular reapplication. We choose instead to leave white gold in its natural state, which has a soft, warm, slightly ivory tone.

This means your jewellery will age honestly, without sudden colour changes or the need for routine re-plating. If you’re seeking a crisp, cool white, platinum remains the truest choice.

Rose Gold

Rose gold is created by blending gold with copper, giving it its distinctive blush tone. It feels warm, romantic, and slightly vintage in character.

It is also one of the more durable gold alloys, making it a lovely option for jewellery worn regularly. Rose gold suits those drawn to softer hues and a sense of individuality.

Mixed Metals

Mixed metal designs allow two precious metals to sit together in a single piece, creating contrast, depth, and individuality.

Our mixed metal pieces often use hand-hammered joins, where one metal meets another through an organic, tactile edge. Each join is unique, a direct result of being shaped by hand rather than cast from a mould.

They’re ideal if you’re drawn to more than one tone, or if you want your jewellery to quietly express something personal.

Choosing the Right Metal

Choosing a metal is both a practical and emotional decision. Think about how you live, the tones you naturally gravitate toward, and how you’d like your jewellery to age over time.

If you love a cool, white finish that will remain unchanged for life, platinum is our strongest recommendation. If you’re drawn to warmth and tradition, yellow gold offers timeless beauty. If you prefer softer, more unusual tones, white gold in its natural form or rose gold may feel just right. And if you love contrast, a mixed metal piece can bring everything together beautifully.

Whichever metal you choose, every Pruden and Smith piece is made by hand, in precious metal, to be worn and loved for years to come.